Return to the Eternal City

no new ice-cream to report. so help me, as satan is my witness i will spend my last weekend in Rome where i belong.
Rome in all it's polluted, crowded, noisy, sneaky, oily, dirty glory.
Florence is officially a bigger tourist trap the Disneyland Paris. we walked around the downtown centre last night and perhaps only two couples we passed were speaking Italian. even the italians here are from other parts of italy.
Italian doorknobs:
Hands holding the knocker
Screaming faces with the knocker in the beard
Sphinxes
Dragons
Griffins
smiling masks
i want a griffin doorknocker.